![]() No permanent modification will have to be done to the car itself. Master cylinder plates are cut, drilled, tapped, and ready for install as soon as I get the clutch line. Master cylinder adapter plates, a few screws, aluminum spacers, washers, and a custom hacked master cylinder ball end to fit the Wilwood push rod into the factory plastic socket piece that seats in the pedal arm. 75" bore.Ĭlutch line: Stainless braided 10mm banjo (Wilwood end) to 10 x 1mm inverted flare fitting (NC slave end). Master cylinder: Wilwood GS compact master cylinder. Update (because I can tell you are all on the edge of your seats checking this thread hourly :| ) If you are interested in seeing where this goes. These can be purchased cheap and have been proven to work with much stronger clutch systems. As for the slave, fitment wise the best prospect for a slave I have seen is an RX7 unit. The goal is to run a single stainless steel braided line with standard pressure fittings straight from the CMC to the slave, bypassing any hard lines and specialty connectors required in the OEM system. The AP unit has options up to 15/16" bore (over the factory 5/8" bore) that will provide more than enough added volume to push more fluid requiring less pedal travel. Wilwood is much easier to source and cheaper, but it would require more extensive brackets for mounting while the AP unit will mount in a single round hole so a simple, flat sandwich bracket mounted to the existing OEM pedal bracket will be much easier / cheaper to fabricate. The best / easiest option when it comes to mounting an available upgraded replacement seems to be an AP Racing bulkhead mount master cylinder (PN CP4400). I am currently working on taking specs of the OEM CMC. So for those who find themselves in the need of an OEM replacement CMC, go straight to Rock Auto or Wagner for a replacement if you want the OEM replacement at a fraction of the cost. So, what appears to be a cheap ($46) third party replacement part turns out to be an OEM manufactured part! I opened up the Wagner box to find a LuK / Mazda stamped part! See attached image below. I only needed it to take measurements so I wasn't worried about overall quality. I purchased the cheapest CMC I could find on (Rock Auto P/N Wagner CM147016). So far the RX7 looks like a possible candidate. The slave cylinder will end up being an aluminum slave cylinder from another vehicle. Rebuild-able / easily replaced alternative for CMC and CSC. If / when I do find a better clutch option, the hydraulic system will need to be strong enough to handle the increased pressure required to push a stronger pressure plateĤ. By increasing the bore size I can decrease pedal travel and increase engagement / disengagement sensitivity, pedal feel and speed.ģ. I want to replace it with a universal, easy to replace, more robust option.Ģ. I strongly dislike that Mazda has put plastic parts where I believe aluminum / steel should be used for strength, reliability and longevity. I’ve read to many posts of people having problems with this and wanted to share my experience.A project to upgrade the hydraulic transmission components on the BM 2014-'18 Mazda 3 6MT:ġ. On the third round the pedal was to stiff to stick to the floor so I just left it up. After each cycle, I would make sure to top off the reservoir. Then I use a hand vacuum pump from harbor freight ($25) to build 15-20psi and then with one hand manually force close the slave cylinder and then using 9mm with the other hand to open the bleeder. My method was pump the clutch pedal about 5 times and leave it against the firewall. Once I lowered the car back down to level, it literally only took 3 openings of the bleeder valve to be back at 100%. I had my car jacked up from the driver side to have alittle more access and by doing so it tilted the reservoir to an air bubble. ![]() Even thou the reservoir was full, the back end where it feed the clutch line was lower than then the flow tube. I kept adding fluid between pumps and was getting little flow thru. After many hours of cussing out anything and everything, I finally decided to remove the battery box again after I just change out the master cylinder to attempt to bleed from the bottom of the master cylinder. Gravity bleed, pressure bleed, or using a friend to pump the clutch will not do you any good if the car is not level. Here is the moment I figured out what was wrong…. After wasting away 3 days trying to bleed a clutch.
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